Dax McGill NSSA Surf of the Month

Futures team rider and budding North Shore phenom Dax McGill has just been honored with a page in Surfing Magazine, as the NSSA Surfer of the Month. Dax and her little bro Finn are coming up. Be aware, they're getting rad! Congrats Dax...

John John Flirts With Perfection, Wins Pipe Pro!

The best thing about everything that John John is doing right now is that it's all just the beginning. We're all witness to what is becoming the next level. A well-roundedness that is beyond comprehension and an approach that will take things further.

John John was not 100% at the Volcom Pipe Pro. He had a deep cut in his hand, and his back (which he broke about a year ago) was not feeling good. In all honesty, it was a bit of a struggle for him. But, this is where true grit prevails, and John was defending his title. He was surfing for neighborhood supremacy, which means more than points or money, when you live at Pipeline.

Every heat he came from behind. Guys were packing 8-10 foot bombs, and John was waiting for the good ones. Good enough ones to get through the heat, a few times. His intimate knowledge of the reef bailed him out more than once, and when he got to the Semis he could smell another event win at Pipe. But, with 11:26 seconds left in the heat he was in 4th. Seven and a half minutes later, with 3:50 left on the clock, he was in 1st. A minute later, he was further ahead. Things happen fast.

Things stayed on the same pace during the Final. John started slow. J.O.B. did not. He was throwing away an 8.00 and sitting on two 9's in the first 10 minutes of the Heat. John had 3 points. But, things happen fast at the Pipeline, and after taking one massive Pipe closeout to get the blood flowing, John came to. With 16:54 seconds left on the clock he got a 6.33. Signs of life, but he went quiet again. Twelve more minutes ticked away, and then the flood gates opened. A 10.0 with 4:00 left, and then a 9.93 Backdoor buzzer beater.

Seven hundredths of a point from perfection, but a third Pipe event win, all before his twentieth birthday.

The neighborhood is ripe with talent, and the rivalry between John and J.O.B. is strong and healthy. The boys were high fivin' and hugging it out on the beach. Nothing you can say about a double near perfect performance from the hood's two superstars. Volcom Pipeline Pro rules, again!

Congrats John! We love you...

John John takes Sunset, Vans World Cup

As if he were only good in front of his house at Pipe. Just saying...

JJ put on a clinic up the road the last two days, showing the world that North Shore knowledge is all encompassing. He kind of re-wrote the book, actually. With Futures teammate and Sunset kingpin Pancho Sullivan in his corner, John took his talent and Pancho's knowledge and let it rip. It was a beautiful display.

Bear in mind, last week in Haleiwa he made the Semi-finals at the Reef Hawaiian Pro, with a bag of tricks spawning from insane backside airs, that looked something like this. But, this week was different. It was classic. Late drops, long bottom turns, deep tubes and vicious hacks. The kind of stuff a purist's dreams are made of.

At the end of the day John had four of the Top 10 Heat Scores of the event, including the highest score of 18.40 in the Semi-finals. He had the 2nd and 3rd highest Waves Scores, with only Ola's perfect 10.0 scoring higher.

Enjoy it all via the Vans Heat Analyzer, as many times as you want.

Congrats John. See you at Pipe next week.

My Set-Up: Flynn Novak

Flynn has been a fixture on the North Shore for years, pulling into bombs at Pipe, putting together super progressive video parts and absolutely regulating Rocky Point. It's his play ground, and he takes it all very seriously. Flynn could be the hardest working man on the North Shore; running a blog, writing editorial columns and pushing the limits. He's a board addict, and of the 60 plus sticks he has, he chose this one as his latest muse.

"This is a 5'10" Bret Marimoto shape. It's 18 3/8" x 2 1/4" and it's just what we've been working on, polishing my shortboard designs over the years. I get a few boards from Bret every year, and he does a great job working off the feedback, making me a better board each time. Lately I've been going with some 5-Fin set ups, which is really cool. You get two boards out of one, and it's great too for travel or at home to have that other dimension. I'll ride it as a normal thruster, and then if the waves have a more down the line look to them, then I'll go with a quad. This board goes really well as both, which I'm super stoked on. Two magic boards in one. Normally I would use the EA Quad set up, where all four fins have a flat foil. To me, they're a little more precise, and I have more control with my turns using flat foils. Sometimes quads have a little slide to them, but the flat foil helps reduce that."

Check out Flynn's Wave of the Winter clip on Surfline.

My Set-Up: Shane Dorian

Shane is pinnacle. He's made groundbreaking achievements at every level of the sport. And, he's been riding Futures for more than a decade now. He's looking forward to another winter, pushing the envelope of what is possible. But today, he's just looking for some fun out at Backdoor. We caught him in the yard of the Billabong house, as he was getting his new 5'11" set up. Here's what he had to say.

"It's a 5'11" thumbtail. It's my model by John Carper. 18.35" wide and 2.3" thick. It's a normal little board. I've gone a bit thicker and wider lately. We made it for little Backdoor, maybe up to 4 feet Hawaiian. Almost a mini little step up for me. My shortboards are around 5'8" these days. It's just for really good waves. A tube shooter for sure. The kind of board that when I come flying out of the barrel at Backdoor I will be able to do a big hack too. I'm really loving the F4 Techflex. Initially because John John is riding them, and I want to surf like him. But, they're insane. There is great hold and I can kick 'em off the top when I'm there. The grip coming back down the transition is unreal. Really stable, for a smallish fin."

My Set-Up: Seabastian Zeitz

Seabass made a name for himself a few years back, pulling into some heavy waves at Off The Wall and Backdoor. Those antics earned him a good sponsorship with Oakley, affording him the opportunity to travel the world on the ASP circuit, gathering points to ultimately come home to Hawaii and surf the Triple Crown. He's a funny guy, always ready for action, and we caught him at the water's edge, with a favorite board, on the way out to his North Shore stomping grounds.

"This is my new custom shape, that will be my model. It doesn't even have a name yet. I've been working with Boysen for 5 or 6 years now, so my boards are pretty dialed in. It's 6'0" x 18 3/4" x 2 1/4" and I'm riding the F4 Techflex. They're a new fin for me, but they really feel sick. There's a lot of hold, which is cool because they're small, and you can really blow the tail. They're really light, and just come through moves so easily. All year I've been riding AM1s. It's a really good fin for all around surfing in beach breaks, and when it gets a little bigger I'll use the AM2. But, I'm pretty hyped on these F4s now too."

My Set-Up: Keala Naihe

Keala is part of the next generation coming from the Big Island of Hawaii (FBI). He's been on the radar outside Hawaii for a few years now, winning the coveted NSSA Open Jr National Title last year. Keala is transitioning to the ASP Pro Jrs, but for now he's camped out at the Oakley House looking for an opportunity. He's ready to go, and here is his take on what he'll be riding.

"The waves are small again today, so I've got my 5'9" x 18.17" x 2.17" Regulator Model by Bret Murimoto. I'm riding it now with the AM2 Techflex fins. They're a little bit bigger fin, which is good for Hawaii, because the waves are more bowly and they feel good in the pocket. I got a couple fun ones at Backdoor yesterday. This is my standard shortboard, and it's what I'll be riding again today."

My Set-Up: Stephan Koehne

Stephen Koehne lives on Kauai, but has been a fixture on the North Shore for quite a few years now. He'll pack some of the biggest bombs of the winter at Off the Wall, in hot pursuit of "the shot". He's a proud new father, and is looking forward to a prosperous winter getting tubed. We found him on the steps of the Oakley house at Off the Wall, checking the surf and chatting with da boyz.

"This board is a 5'7" x 18 5/8" x 2 1/8". It's a Jason Kashiwai shape, and is kind of his version of a CI Flyer. Definitely a small wave board, good for these nice days when the swell is down. I rode it at Backdoor yesterday and it felt good in little barreling waves, so that was cool. I am using the Yu fins in it. They have the right mixture of drive and hold, and with the smaller center fin you get good release off the top. I buckled it yesterday in front of the fins, but it's not too bad, so I'm hoping I get a few more sessions on it before it breaks."

My Set-Up: Matt Pagan

Matt Pagan is from the streets of Los Angeles, Westchester to be exact. He's hit the road hard this year, following contests around the globe, and is now relaxing in his families house near Log Cabins. The house is full of his friends and fellow competitors, and we caught up with him just after a big clean up. His mom and siblings are on their way over. With boards stacked in all corners of the house, Matt shared his take on one of his favorites with us.

"This board is my pro-model with Roberts Surfboards, called the MP3. The tail is really pulled in and it's about an inch shorter than what I was riding a year ago. It's got some extra width up in the chest area, allowing it to work when it's overhead, as well as in 2 foot Huntington. It's a 6'0 1/2" x 18 3/8" x 2 5/16" and I'm using the new Roberts fins. The side fins are a bit bigger, with the center fin a slightly smaller template. I'm a little bigger, so I like the drive I get from the bigger sides, especially over here in Hawaii, I can push them around. I went with a Laker color theme here. I bleed purple and yellow, and I'm just hoping for a game soon, but it's not looking good for the NBA this year."

Bonus Van story: "My dad was given this van about 15 years ago by our neighbor. It was always just there, and as soon as we got the house he shipped it over. It's really sketchy, but we're committed to it. There are a few features that really make it unique. Sometimes the starter doesn't turn over, so I have to go underneath and bang on the starter box, and then it'll go. You can also take the keys out of the ignition while it's running. I've used a butter knife to start it before. Pretty classic. We don't really like to take it on airport runs, but it's made a few over the years. From V-Land to Haleiwa though, it's all good."

My Set-Up: Michel Bourez

Michel is a past winner of the Reef Hawaiian Pro, and he's channeling those memories as he waits for the event to start. He's loving the islands, feeling at home, even if the surf is only small. Warm water, reefs, power and the occasional barrel are his preference. We found Michel at the Nike house at Off the Wall just after a morning surf check at Baggers, and he gave us his take on what's been working for him on the North Shore.

"So, it is a 5'11" x 18 7/16" x 2 7/16" made by Firewire, my sponsor. Nev is the shaper, and it's my model. My name is on the bottom. It's a round pin, which is good for Hawaii, and this is my favorite board for now. I just use the EA Blackstix model, because I really like it. It's the kind of fin I can use in any condition. It's good for turns, barrels... everything. This is my pick for the contest in Haleiwa."

My Set-Up: Manuel Selman

Manuel is one of those surfers that can hold it down from two to twenty feet. He's got air game, can make heats, and he's an absolute charger. Ramon Navarro has blazed a trail that Manuel is following, making a name for Chile amongst the international big wave scene. He's here on the North Shore waiting to get barreled, but is happy to get into some playful Rockies just the same, and for that here is his choice of gear.

"This is a Byrne, shaped by Michael Barron. It's 5'11 1/2" x 18 3/8" x 2 3/16" round squash tail. It's my all around short board, something I'd take to a contest or ride here when it's small. We've been surfing Rockies, and today I rode it at Backdoor. I still haven't needed to ride something bigger, but I hope the swell comes, so I can ride the bigger ones. I rode the Clay Marzo fins today. I was riding the green AM1, but the Marzo feels a little more whippy and releases better off the top. I also feel like I can push a little harder on the bottom turns with the Marzo. It's a fun set-up, for the waves we have today."

My Set-Up: Alex Smith

Alex Smith loves surfing. He remembers the 10 point ride he got at Backdoor a few years ago, like it was yesterday. After breaking his foot in June, Alex has made a full recovery and is loving the North Shore right now. On his way out to Backdoor, here's his take...

"It's a 5'11 1/2" DHD Puzzle Piece. I went to Australia in September to get some custom boards from DH and they're working really good. I'm trying to get them wired, and the waves look really fun right now. I'm riding the AM2 here, it's a bit bigger fin, and works great for Hawaii waves. I was riding smaller fins this summer, before I got hurt, but these are the ones for me this winter. Thank you!"

My Set-Up: Conner Coffin

Conner Coffin is a smart man. He's 18 and has already finished a year and a half of college credits. He's got a house at Backdoor, the very wave that Kelly introduced his Deep6 board design to the world, on the way to winning another Pipe Masters. Conner got one, and here's his take...

"It's a 5'8" x 18 5/8" x 21/2" Deep6. It's got a 5 fin set up. And, its intentions are to get barreled. I have never ridden a Quad before, so this is a test run with the EA Quad fins. It seems like a fun little board for getting tubes, and today looks fun at Backdoor. I hope it goes fast."

After session report: Fast - check, Tubed - check. Conner rode the board all day, and couldn't stop smiling.

My Set-Up: John Florence

He's become iconic at Pipe. But, John John carried on this year and has shown his ability in all types of waves. In September he made the jump onto the ASP World Tour. Thanks to a lack of swell on the North Shore today, he's out riding his small wave board. Here's his take...

"This is a Grunt, it's a 5'11" and it's made for small waves. I don't know the rest of the dimensions, all I know is it is 5'11". Pyzel is keeping things a little secret these days, which is fine for me. These are the new Proto-Type fins that were just made. They're a tiny bit bigger than the F4's, a little bit different template, and working well so far. Backdoor was fun."

My Set-Up: Masatoshi Ohno

Mar Ohno is one of Japan's tour warriors, and is also the wind in the sails of the frothing Gudauskas clan. They're an excited bunch, and never more excited than when they have Mar around. We connected with Mar on the sand before a sunset session at Off The Wall , and he gave us a look at what he was riding.

"This is a 5'7" Cheese Whip. I just picked it up yesterday and rode it one time at Laniakea. It felt really good. I kind of wanted to keep it for the contest, but I couldn't resist. I need to try it one more time before I put it aside for my heats. For fins, I always like the AM1, but when it's small I like the AM3. The Green one and the Purple one."

My Set-Up: Tyler Newton

Tyler Newton's got 1st Heat of the Reef Hawaiian Pro, whenever the contest gets underway. It's a tough spot to be in, essentially being on call for days. We connected with him at the Quiksilver House, to find out what he's riding.

"This is pretty much my standard shortboard that I would use anywhere, Hawaii or California. It's 6'0" x 183/8" x 23/16", sort of an all around board, shaped by Darren Symes (DS Surfboards). I'm using the EA Honeycomb fins. They're my go to set, in small waves up to a bit overhead."